High Brow

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The pencil-thin arches of the ’90s will fortunately stay a thing of the past. Statement brows are trending worldwide thanks to supermodel-of-the-moment Cara Delevigne’s enviably bold and super-thick arches. Everyone seems to want them, and everyone can have them with a few little tweaks, some tweezing and other clever tricks. By Eva Pavithran

TWEEZE AT HOME

Not all of us are born with naturally thick and bushy eyebrows, but with a few ingenious moves you can get sculpt the thickness and shape to suit your face structure. Most of us head to the salon or reach for the tweezers the minute our brows start to grow back. The key to having bushy eyebrows is to leave them un-plucked or- tweezed for two weeks at least. That way they will grow out nice and thick.

THE ONE-FINGER RULE: The general rule for the middle is to only tweeze the area that fits under the pad of your index finger. This will give the brows a chance to grow in for a stronger line. If you don’t like the way it looks after it grows or if it hasn’t grown straight, skip the tweezers and trim instead.

MEET IN THE MIDDLE: The goal is to make your brows look as similar as possible.So enroute to brow perfection if you realise that one brow is higher than the other, split the difference. Tweeze a little bit off the top of the higher brow and a little bit off the bottom of the lower brow. If you have some growing to do, leave the tweezing for next month when you can assess and reshape with a little more growth.

TRIM RIGHT: Trimming can make a significant difference to the grooming and shape of your brows. Here’s a quick how-to: brush brows up, or in the direction they grow, and then turn your scissors against the hair and cut whatever is above the brow-line. The scissors should be parallel to the brow to give them a straight clean edge. A caveat: Don’t ever hold the brow hair up with the brush while cutting, or you will end up with a crazy brow-line! Just keep brushing and trimming until the line looks neat and straight.

THE PERFECT BROW KIT

Creating beautiful arches isn’t simply about tweezing, waxing or threading. You will need the right products. We’ve got a list of brow fixers that will get the job done with ease.

BROW PENCILS: You can create depth and an illusion of a fuller brow with the right pencil. Fill in the gaps by drawing thin, hair-like lines with any pencil that helps you do this with extreme precision.

Pro tip: Most brow pencils come with a brush, which smoothes things out while you are blending the strokes into the brows for a more natural finish. Pencils need a more steady and experienced hand, so practice will make you perfect. Until then, make sure to choose a product that wipes off easily for when you need to correct or fix mistakes.

DON’T HOLD THE BROWHAIR UP WITH THE BRUSH WHILE CUTTING. JUST KEEP BRUSHING AND TRIMMING.

BROW POWDERS: The powders lend just the right amount of density to eyebrows that look sparse despite being well-shaped. While pencils can be used for filling in gaps, brow powders pump up the volume. Brow powders are also easier to use for beginners, as you can gradually build up the colour.

Pro tip: Colour selection is crucial. Choose one that’s two shades lighter than your actual brow colour or the hair colour you’ve used (if any). Brushing powder into the inner corners of your eyebrows will make them look fake. Instead, focus the powder from the beginning of your arch to the end of your brow. Then, using a brow brush, blend the existing pigment into the inner corner for a more natural look.

BROW GELS:When it comes to setting your brow shape, nothing gets the job done like a brow gel. The beauty of this product is that it adds just the tiniest hint of hue and sheen while managing longer, unruly arches. Gels are relatively easier to use and keep you looking young and fresh. Pick a waterproof formula that won’t flake or dry out, or it will look too shiny and stiff.

Pro tip: Make sure you choose a brow gel that has a wand that isolates each hair perfectly without staining the skin, or messing with the work of the powder or pencil underneath. To achieve a natural lift, sweep the gel through your eyebrows in an upward motion.

BROW WAXES:Easily the best tool to dress up the naked gaps of a stripped-down brow. These come in tinted or clear versions and also with a brow powder or pencil accompaniment, which will all help you set your brows masterfully.

Pro tip: Make sure to use a light hand while applying, as wax can build up—the last thing you need is product residue on your brows. Always use a stiff, angled brush. Apply in short strokes in the direction of your hair growth, and then blend for a natural look.

TATTOO IT ON

In layman’s terms, permanent makeup can be explained as tattooing targeted especially to enhance your facial features. But mind you, only micropigmentation specialists can perform this procedure—not just any tattoo artists. Just like with tattoo designs, a professional draws a perfect set of eyebrows. Coloured pigments of mineral or natural origin are deposited on the uppermost layer of the skin called the epidermis. This is done with the help of disposable fine needles. The procedure is done to enhance and contour facial features and is especially great for people who have sparse eyebrows or those who have lost them due to excessive tweezing or radiation/chemotherapy.

CAUTION AND CARE:Like any other procedure, ask around for references and make sure you’re going to a skilled technician.Corrective procedures are painful and expensive. As with any tattoo, this too will fade with time and change as the skin sags with age. You will need touchups every two years.

WHEN IT COMES TO BROW WAXES, ALWAYS USE A STIFF, ANGLED BRUSH. APPLY IN SHORT STROKES IN THE DIRECTION OF YOUR HAIR GROWTH, AND THEN BLEND. 

WALK INTO A BROW BAR:Brow bars are all the rage around the world these days. It turns out that there is a bit of mathematics involved when it comes to designing that perfect arch for your face shape. New Yorkbased eyebrow guru Joey Healy has created a protractor- like tool that measures an individual’s facial structure for perfect, customised brows every time. This tool measures the bridge of the nose, the arch of the brow and its tail to calculate the ideal brow shape based on a mathematical formula.

With input from
Sonic Sarwate, senior makeup artist, M•A•C India

PHOTOGRAPHS: SHUTTERSTOCK, IMAGELIBRARY/CORBIS IMAGES
*PLEASE CONSULT YOUR DERMATOLOGIST BEFORE CONSIDERING THIS PROCEDURE

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